We all face a compromise when making multiple photos of the same scene. On the one hand, the more images you shoot the better the odds that you'll capture exactly what you want. The flip side of the coin is that the time you spend during the culling and editing process increases dramatically when you just lay on the shutter button and fire away.
Sunsets and many afternoon landscape scenes are usually resplendent in soft warm colors, and a typical approach to editing such images is to enhance those red and orange tones. This Lightroom tutorial takes a different approach, by emphasizing cool tones within a photograph to create a unique look that still appears natural.
Experienced wildlife photographers know that the power of an image often depends upon how an animal’s eyes are rendered. Out-of-focus dull eyes can really spoil an otherwise great shot, while overly brightened, sharpened eyes make the subject appear unnatural and crazy.
Today's eye-opening tutorial begins with a question from instructor Mark Denney: "What Raw Color Profile do you use when editing photos in Lightroom?" The answer from many photographers often begins with a blank stare, followed by something like this: "Uh, I guess I use the default or the Standard Profile."
Today were looking at another powerful new feature in the latest Lightroom update—one that delivers improved edits and a better workflow when working with compatible HDR displays. High Dynamic Range (HDR) displays provide greater brightness and contrast than their more common Standard Dynamic Range (SDR) counterparts.
Lightroom's recently updated Tone Curve is a powerful component of what Adobe enables you to achieve when processing photos. Unfortunately, this versatile tool is frequently avoided because some users find it rather intimidating.
Most photographers rely upon the Tone panel in Lightroom or Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) when processing their images. But guess what? There's a good chance you're not using these important tools correctly. In today's quick tutorial from the Photoshop Café YouTube channel you'll learn what you may be doing wrong, and the proper way to proceed.
One factor that differentiates great photos from those that miss the mark is achieving accurate colors that faithfully represent a scene. Last week we featured a primer with the best White Balance camera settings to use for various situations, and today you'll learn how to get the job done when fixing problem photos in Lightroom.
Photography is all about maximizing light, and landscape photographers are always at the mercy of prevailing conditions. The quick tutorial below demonstrates how to make necessary adjustments in Lightroom when Mother Nature fails to cooperate.
We'll put it bluntly: If you're not making use of Local adjustments when processing photos, you're images won't meet their full potential. This is especially true with outdoor scenes with a wide array of brightness levels and color tones throughout the frame.
Long exposure outdoor photography can be quite a challenge, because considerable experimentation is often required to get great results. In the tutorial below you’ll pick up some valuable tips that will significantly improve your odds of success.
Long Exposure Noise Reduction is very helpful feature available in most modern digital cameras, including interchangeable lens models and many full-featured compacts. But as you'll see in the following tutorial from the Photo Genius YouTube channel, leaving this setting turned on by default will hold you back in certain situations.
It’s inevitable: Sooner or later you’ll come upon an interesting scene, and the only camera you have on hand is your phone. Sure, it’s possible to make impressive images with the latest phones, but what if the photo you envision requires a long exposure?
Have you ever marveled at landscape photos shot with long exposures and ND filters, and said to yourself “This is too complicated for me?” The quick video below will correct this misconception and explain how easy this is to accomplish using a few basic tips.