DSLR News

Like many “serious” photographers, I’m unapologetic about owning quite a few cameras, including a DSLR, two mirrorless systems, and a vintage 35mm SLR. My arsenal also includes an array of nice glass to support the foregoing, and a few historically interesting (but not particularly useful) models.

This quick tutorial is all about idiot-proofing your camera by changing camera settings that can spoil your photos. The idea is to help you avoid mistakes, whether you just bought a new camera and you’re reviewing the defaults, or you have several cameras in your stable.

Yesterday we covered the important topic of ISO, and how to use this simple setting to give images the specific look you desire. Today we’ll explore exposure bracketing, another basic concept, and you’ll see how this easy-to-use tool will help you maximize detail in your photographs.

We’ve all heard the banter: “If you’re serious about photography you need full frame.” Or how about “You’re not a proper landscape photographer if you don’t shoot full frame.” All this boils down to the notion that big is always best, all the while bad-mouthing APS-C and MFT cameras.

ISO is a very important concept and makes up one side of the Exposure Triangle; the other two being aperture and shutter speed. These three variables interact to arrive at a correct exposure.

One of the many benefits of modern mirrorless cameras is that they enable you to use vintage lenses of various brands with the use of simple and affordable adapters. So if you have an assortment of old legacy glass gathering dust, it’s possible to get started as soon as you acquire a new camera, without immediately investing in native lenses.

Regardless of the type of images you shoot, without sharp and precise focus your efforts will likely be for naught. There are a variety of methods to use, and the one you choose depends upon a number of key variables.