So you absolutely love landscape photography and you’re motivated to do everything possible to improve your work. One way to do that is by following the ongoing tutorials we post, and another is to be sure you’re using the type of gear that is best suited for the task.
If you’re a wildlife photographer thinking about ditching your favorite DSLR in favor of a mirrorless camera, this video is for you. Before making the switch, see what this pro says are the pros, cons, and compromises.
One reason mirrorless digital cameras are so popular is that with an appropriate adapter you can use just about all of the great vintage glass that’s lurking in the back of your photo cabinet. And, if like me, you own a Pentax DSLR, you can mount just about any lens Pentax ever made, with no adapter required.
One of the first choices you come across when setting up a new camera is the Color Space setting where you can select either sRGB or AdobeRGB, and both have their purposes. If you want to know what’s the best option for you, and when to change it, read on.
When contemplating the purchase of a new camera, lens, or important accessory, it’s really important to do your research—like reading the reviews we post here. It also helps to get the opinion of professional photographers, and hear what’s selling like hotcakes at retail.
You’ve no doubt heard us use the term “dynamic range” in camera reviews, image-editing tutorials, and discussions about the advantage of shooting Raw. But what does this term really mean, and how does it affect your photos?
Life would be so much easier if we had a single set of camera settings that worked for all types of nature photography. Unfortunately, that’s simply not possible because of ever-changing light, a wide variety of subject matter, and the need to compose various images differently.
Like many “serious” photographers, I’m unapologetic about owning quite a few cameras, including a DSLR, two mirrorless systems, and a vintage 35mm SLR. My arsenal also includes an array of nice glass to support the foregoing, and a few historically interesting (but not particularly useful) models.
We talk a lot about techniques for making sharp photographs because precise focus acquisition contributes greatly to the impact of an image. That means doing things right in the camera, as well as editing your work carefully.
This quick tutorial is all about idiot-proofing your camera by changing camera settings that can spoil your photos. The idea is to help you avoid mistakes, whether you just bought a new camera and you’re reviewing the defaults, or you have several cameras in your stable.
Capturing sharp photos is a key goal for all types of photography, but achieving precise focus is particularly challenging when shooting wildlife and other fast-moving subjects outdoors.
Yesterday we covered the important topic of ISO, and how to use this simple setting to give images the specific look you desire. Today we’ll explore exposure bracketing, another basic concept, and you’ll see how this easy-to-use tool will help you maximize detail in your photographs.
Most photographers are familiar with the Exposure Triangle that consists of Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO—the three camera settings that combine to arrive at a “correct exposure.” Of course what’s perceived as “correct” is in the eye of the beholder, as the exposure you use depends upon the mood you intend to convey.
We’ve all heard the banter: “If you’re serious about photography you need full frame.” Or how about “You’re not a proper landscape photographer if you don’t shoot full frame.” All this boils down to the notion that big is always best, all the while bad-mouthing APS-C and MFT cameras.
We all love new gear, and many photographers are constantly chasing the latest innovations in cameras, lenses, and accessories. But in many cases you can capture amazing images with the gear you already own, especially if you refine your skills with a few simple tricks.