Typically when we discuss photographing birds in flight, the emphasis is on techniques for capturing super sharp images. But as you’ll see in today’s tutorial, there’s another critical consideration under certain lighting conditions.
Aperture is a key fundamental of photography, and one component of the Exposure Triangle—along with ISO and shutter speed—that work together to produce properly exposed images. But as you’ll see in the tutorial below, the f/stop you choose also affects photos in other important ways.
If you’re struggling to properly exposure complicated outdoor photos join the club! Many landscape scenes involve a wide range of tones from bright highlights to deep shadows, and it can be difficult knowing where to start.
OK, be honest here: Your camera has an AE-L/AF-L button, right? Do you understand how it works? Are you using it regularly? If you’re like many photographers, your answer to the first question is, “sure,” to the second question, “I think so,” and to the third question, “not really.”
(Editor’s Note:Exploring Light is a monthly Shutterbug column featuring tips, tricks, and photo advice from professional photographers in Canon Explorers of Light education program. This month's column is by Bob Davis, with great tips for shooting sharp photos of wildlife and birds in flight.
The first thing most of us think of when we hear the words “Zone System” is the great Ansel Adams, who developed this powerful exposure technique with Fred Archer over 80 years ago. The second thing that often comes to mind is the word “complicated.”
Photographers tend to be very serious about eliminating (or at least reducing) noise in their photographs. These ugly digital artifacts tend to show up as distracting specs of grain, or random variations in color and brightness in areas of an image than should appear clean.
Admit it: You typically shoot in Aperture or Shutter Priority mode, and are pleased with your images. Yet you’re nagged by the nonsense that, you’re not a “real” photographer unless you use Manual Mode.
Because photography is a two-dimensional art, the images we capture—even those of moving subjects—can appear boringly static. Fortunately, there’s a simple way to “unbore” your photos by using the simple shooting method described below.
One of the few mistakes that can totally ruin a photo is failing to achieve precise focus on the primary subject in a scene. There are a variety of camera settings and shooting techniques for increasing your odds of success, and today we’re going to concentrate on one of the most helpful.
If you’re about to make the switch to mirrorless, or looking for an affordable backup camera for the system you already own, the new Nikon Z 30 deserves your attention. This is the smallest, lightest Z Series camera that Nikon has ever made, yet it offers a wide range of advanced features.
Most of my columns for this website concern the ideas and purposes behind the photographs I take. I always include information about the technology used to achieve the photos, which could be as basic as the f/stop chosen to direct your attention, or the use of a ND filter to make a long exposure possible. That approach is not incidental or coincidental; the stories are planned along those lines because my ideas come first, and technology’s purpose is to support those ideas.
Today we’re going to discuss lens fogging—a serious problem that plagues outdoor photographers this time of year. When this occurs you’ll either miss a spontaneous opportunity while waiting for a lens to clear up, or you’ll snap the shutter and end up with a worthless photo.
If you’re having trouble nailing exposure and ask a few friends for help, you’re likely to be told, “it’s time you mastered Manual mode.” While that’s certainly an option, there’s another (and often easier) way to consistently achieve perfectly exposed photos.
Photographers tend to be gadget freaks and love useful accessories. The problem is there’s some great “secret” stuff out there from small companies without marketing budgets to bring them to your attention.