Today's Photoshop tutorial addresses a very common problem that many of us encounter when shooting landscapes, environmental portraits, and other photographs outdoors. It occurs when your camera is pointed up or down, rather than flat to the horizon.
Photoshop’s Neural Filters are so amazing that it’s tempting to reach for them first whenever editing images that need work. Despite the magic, however, sometimes a more “traditional" approach is almost as easy and delivers more faithful results.
When reviewing images on the computer, many of us immediately relegate images with boring flat light to the trash. But if you resist the temptation and employ a simple editing technique, you can rehabilitate dull images and turn them into something special.
We've all come upon a beautiful scene only to discover that our images look flat and lifeless. Sometimes that's because the light wasn't quite right, while other times the culprit was operator failure, i.e. we used the wrong camera settings or techniques.
Landscape photography can be difficult depending upon ambient light and the position of the sun. Earlier this week we featured a powerful Lightroom tutorial for "relighting" dull and lifeless images, and today we have another one that addresses a different challenge.
So you captured a gorgeous landscape scene and nailed focus, exposure, and composition. Then you reviewed your images on the computer, expecting stunning results, only to discover that the horizons are curved and distorted.
How often have you arrived at a favorite location for a day of landscape photography, only to confront a dull, uninspiring sky? If you’re like most of us, the answer is “more than once or twice.”
Inexperienced wildlife photographers often struggle to properly expose birds, whether they're sitting still on a tree or in flight, and underexposed subjects are the typical concern. This problem is particular acute when our feathered friends are depicted against a bright sky.
One of the biggest challenges for landscape photographers is exposing a scene in a manner that accurately captures all the tones from deep shadows to highlights. A modern camera with a broad density range helps, but even then editing is often required.
Nighttime photography can be a lot of fun because it provides numerous opportunities to capture compelling images in the field or on the street. Familiar scenes that may appear boring during the day are transformed into magical tableaus once the sun drops below the horizon.
There are a number of reasons that landscape and other outdoor photos may be underexposed. Perhaps you neglected to add the necessary EV compensation, or an overly bright sky biased the exposure.
It can be difficult to nail exposure when photographing complicated landscape scenes, especially when snow covers the ground and can easily "fool" your camera's light meter. This tutorial from the PHLOG Photography YouTube channel provides a quick-and-effective fix using Lightroom's Tone Curve tools.
Very few experienced landscape photographers head out in the field without a polarizing filter in their bag. That's because these affordable accessories can be used to darken pale skies, enhance saturation, and remove unwanted reflections that spoil a shot.
One of the most daunting challenges faced by landscape shooters is optimizing sharpness in scenes with important objects in the foreground, midrange, and background of the frame. That's because even if you stop your lens all the way down to f/22 there's insufficient depth of field to maintain sharpness from here to there.
Shutterbug columnist and Photoshop/Lightroom expert Scott Kelby returns with another great photography tips video. In the short clip below, Kelby shows you a simple solution on how to geotag your images to add the location where they were shot, even if your camera doesn’t have built-in GPS.