Mounting Canvas Prints; Gallerie Wrap Makes It A Snap

In a previous Output Options column I wrote about how to mount canvas prints on stretcher bars (see the February 2009 issue of Shutterbug). While it isn’t difficult, it can be time-consuming to get everything just right with no wrinkles or creases. Well, things have gotten much easier with Hahnemühle’s Gallerie Wrap ( Available in Standard and Professional systems, the kits include everything you need to create a gallery wrap canvas print in about 5 minutes.

The Standard Gallerie Wrap uses stretcher bars that are 1.25” deep and available in sizes from 8” up to 24”, with 20 bars to a package. The Professional system uses 1.75” deep stretcher bars in sizes from 20” up to 60” and includes eight bars. You can pick up a starter kit that will give you all the materials, including two sheets of Hahnemühle canvas (either the Daguerre 400 or Monet 410) and a set of stretcher bars to mount an 8.5x11” or 13x19” wrap for about $15-$30. Along with stretcher bars the kit includes the corner positioning jigs, glue, and fasteners (#1). If you decide to forego the starter kit, you’ll need to pick up a corner kit (about $6-$10) along with the size stretcher bars you want to use.

All Photos © 2009, Jon Canfield, All Rights Reserved

Using The Gallerie Wrap System
Obviously, the first step is to print your canvas in the size you need. Because this is a gallery wrap, you’ll want the image to extend enough to wrap around the sides—either an additional 1.25” for the Standard bars, or 1.75” for the Professional bars on each side of the image area. I find that using a program like Genuine Fractals 6 Pro Edition works great for this with their wrap re-size feature—all I need to do is tell the program how large the bars are, and how I want the area filled (#2).


The stretcher bars have an adhesive strip on them to assist with positioning your print. You pull the adhesive strip covers off the bars and insert them into the corner jigs (#3).


With the bars inserted, flip the frame over and position it on the print where you want the print to wrap around the edges. Once you have it properly placed, press down to get a good bond with the canvas (#4). Once this is done, pull the corner jigs off and set them aside—you won’t need them again.


The next step is to trim the excess canvas so that it is flush with the outside edge of the stretcher bars. I suggest using a new blade for this to make sure you get a clean cut—you don’t want a rough edge giving your final print less than a professional look (#5).