PLEASE READ THIS
BEFORE WRITING TO HELP!
Q. I have a 25'
roll of Kodachrome double 8mm film, No. 369, develop before date of
Sept. 1953. As far as I can tell the film may have been exposed, but
has not been developed. The reason for believing so is that I opened
the can in a dark bag and found the film to still be double and the
factory paper wrapping was missing. The can had been opened because
the tape was awry. I am assuming that a double film would have been
split if processed. According to my local photo supplier, Kodak no longer
processes 8mm film nor could they give me a processor, local or elsewhere--except
they did mention a Rocky Mountain Film which I have been unable to locate.
Can you supply a developers name? Thanks in advance.
Your assumption that the film would be split after processing is correct.
The raw unprocessed 25' long film was on a small metal spool about
13/4 to 2" in diameter and about 16mm wide with perforations along
both sides. After processing, the film was split and returned on a plastic
projector reel about 3" in diameter and the film was now 8mm wide,
50' long, with perforations on one side only. I don't know
of any method to determine if the film is still raw (unexposed) or exposed.
As I remember there was a paper tape that held the raw film tightly
wound on the reel which normally was discarded after it was exposed.
But I have not used any of this film for 30 years even though I still
have several 8mm cameras. I called Kodak's customer hotline at
(800) 242-2424 and they told me that Rocky Mountain Film is the only
lab still processing this process K-11 pre-1960 Kodachrome film. However,
they can only process it in black and white, not color as was the normal
end result. If you want to find out if they can do this, contact the
lab at 560 Geneva St., Aurora, CO 80010; (303) 364-6444. I would also
check on the cost and time needed as with many older, long discontinued
processes, it can be prohibitively expensive since there is little demand
Q. I am looking for
a certain Nikor developing tank. This tank was, to the best of my knowledge,
used in the 1960s and 1970s. It could process 21/4x31/4 up to 4x5 sheet
film. I used this tank while in the Air Force. The tank was stainless
steel and could be adjusted to the film being used. When the Air Force
decided to do away with sheet film these tanks were stored. Maybe one
of your readers have or know where one is and could let me know. Thanks.
know the Nikor stainless steel tank system very well as I still have
and use two sizes of tanks and spiral reels holding either two or four
35mm (or one or two 120) films. I know they also offered many other
sizes from small, short 16mm rolls up to huge open top models for processing
100' rolls of 70mm film that we used for black and white portrait
negatives at a university photo service I managed in the 1960s. I personally
don't remember the multipurpose model for sheet film, but I'm
sure they had one as they seemed to have most other sizes available
in that era. We will print your complete address so any reader having
one of these sheet film tank/reel units can contact you directly. I
hope one or more of the readers will have one and will contact you.
If you are interested in current adjustable-size equipment for processing
sheet films, Jobo offers one for use in their rotary processors. You
can call (800) 627-5511 to obtain product literature or write Jobo Fototechnic,
Inc., PO Box 3721, Ann Arbor, MI 48106.
Q. First, I would
like a copy of the manual you have for the Canonet QL17. I have three
of them that I'm going to give to my grandkids. Second, could
you explain a simple but complicated (to me) lighting system. I get
confused with the following: Joules, Watt Seconds, Guide Numbers. What
is the common denominator? What equals what? Keep up the good work!
for the kind words about our efforts to answer reader inquiries. We
do try, even though some of them take quite a while because they require
considerable research. A copy of the requested instructions for the
Canonet QL17 is being sent in your SASE. I agree, there is considerable
confusion about the terms used to measure electronic flash output. Fortunately
I had just received a review copy of a new book titled The Photographic
Flash, A Concise Illustrated History by Bron and Condax. They provide
a pretty good description of the terms, which I quote. "Manufac-turers
and photographers need meaningful measures of the light-producing power
of electronic flash units. The engineers who design the devices naturally
think in terms of electrical energy, watt-seconds. Another name for
the watt-second quantity is the joule, honoring the English physicist,
J.P. Joule, in recognition of his pioneering work in electricity and
the mechanical equivalence of heat. As a measurement joules, though,
are not directly usable in determining photographic exposure, and are
thus only a rough guide for a photographer in comparing the relative
power of flash units. But even two flash units with the same rating
in joules may not have the same photographic effect, due to different
efficiencies in converting electrical energy into light, or to different
types of reflectors or enclosures. Guide numbers are another attempt
at practical power rating, but even these are not totally reliable.
Practical tests under working conditions or measurement with an accurate
strobe meter are always recommended." Even the experts are confused
and misled by these terms, so don't feel you are alone. Each term
is a rough measurement used for a starting point. I realize this does
not really clarify your question, but it's better than what I
could provide myself.
Q. I have accumulated
three old cameras recently as gifts, so how can I determine whether
they are of any value to a collector? 1. Rolleiflex TLR No. 667966;
2. Zeiss Nettar 120 film, Novar-Anastigmat lens, Vario 1:6.3 f/105mm;
3. Balda Dubilette pocket folding camera, 35mm film; No. 3804662 Meyer
Gorlitz 1:2.9 f=5cm lens. How can I arrange to offer them for sale if
they are? I appreciate your expertise regarding these questions, as
I cannot find data of this type locally at all. Thanks for your valued
First of all, we would need more information about the Rolleiflex TLR
as there were so many different models offered from 1929 until the current
models. For instance there were Zeiss Tessar; Zeiss Xenar; Zeiss Planar,
and Zeiss Xenotar lenses. Some were 75mm f/3.5 and others were 80mm
f/2.8. I believe there were also models of the camera. At least my Rolleicord
(a less featured, more manual operation model) was offered in several
models such as my VI model, which I purchased new in 1955 while in college.
The serial number should help, but I don't have any list breaking
down the serial number/year of production. The Zeiss Nettar was made
from 1934-1941 and again from 1949-1957. My 1996 12th edition Blue Book
called it an inexpensive folding roll film camera and showed a price
of $35. Unfortunately I could not find the particular 35mm Balda model
you have in any of a half-dozen price guides I looked at. I trust this
will assist you a bit. You could advertise them for sale in Shutterbug,
but I would suggest first checking the wanted columns for TLR, medium
format (for the 120), and 35mm for a few months to see if anybody is
looking for the particular model(s) you have. That's the method
I use when trying to sell older equipment.
Q. I'd appreciate
some tips on exposure length estimates for night shots using a tripod.
The shots would be of things like city lights, display windows, that
sort of thing.
internal camera meters, even the segmented types on today's sophisticated
AF SLR cameras, tend to read the pinpoints of light in a typical nighttime
situation plus all of the darkness surrounding the lights, then average
the exposure. But, since the large dark areas are more prevalent than
the tiny lights, the results are often unsatisfactory exposures.
Q. Could I obtain
from you any information on the repair of older cameras? Specifically
a Pentax I Q Zoom 60 camera serial No. 7588867? Also, how can I obtain
a copy of Shutterbug? Thank you very much.
I called Pentax customer service in Denver and found that they do not
have any parts available for this compact camera which was discontinued
in 1991. They said one service that does have some parts for this model
is Peachtree Camera and Video in Marietta, Georgia (770) 795-8020. Give
them a call and explain what's wrong with your camera then send
it for an estimate on the repair cost if they can do what's needed
to repair it. If your local newsstand does not carry Shutterbug, check
with a local photo dealer or bookstore. One of these businesses should
carry our publication.
Q. What are the numbers
to the right of the "A" on the aperture ring of a Canonet
QL17 for? Does it have something to do with the flash?
The red "A" has a dual purpose. When set on "A,"
the camera's built-in electric eye metering will control the lens
aperture--if you have the right mercury No. 625 battery installed. But,
they are difficult to find today. You can always use it on full manual
with an external meter or by estimating exposure.
Q. I am looking for
a No. 29 IR filter 37mm for a Sony HI8MM can you help me? Thanks.
I have found a good general source for filters to be The Camera People.
This firm deals in new and used photo equipment specializing in new
and used filters, stepping rings, adapter rings, and similar accessories.
They carry many brands of filters including Tiffen, Hoya, and B+W. The
items are available via mail order with a shipping and handling charge
in the U.S.A. of only $4.50. Their address is 64 W Mill St., PO Box
1069, Bayfield, CO 81122. For information, call (970) 884-6045. They
have a catalog listing items available. You can order by calling (800)
382-2644. Hopefully they will have the specialized filter you seek or
can guide you to a source.
Q. J. A. Babcock
asked if there was an adapter to fit his Nikon 200mm f/4 IF macro lens
to his Canon EOS 1N camera. I purchased an adapter from B&H Camera
which allows me to use all of the manual focus lenses for my Nikon FM
on my Canon Elan IIe. All of these lenses will focus to infinity. Of
course the lenses and the camera must be operated in the manual mode.
As an example, I have a Vivitar 19mm lens and a Tokina 28-70mm zoom
lens for my Nikon FM that work quite well with my Canon camera.
for providing this helpful and enlightening data. Truthfully I was not
aware any adapter existed that would adapt Nikon lenses to a Canon EOS
mount, let alone still allow them to also be capable of focusing to
infinity with his Nikkor 200/4 IF macro lens on an EOS camera body.
We also heard from Henry Posner of B&H Photo who said, "Such
adapters do exist. The unit for Nikon AI lenses to EOS bodies retails
here for $39.95. While Mr. Mayer correctly states that extending a lens
from a body normally prevents infinity focus, these adapters include
a single element designed specifically to overcome this optical problem."
Thanks for this additional data Henry. It is understandable the lens
with an adapter would have to be used in manual mode, but that would
be a minor inconvenience in my estimation. We appreciate both of these
people sending in this data to assist reader Babcock and I'm sure
many others who may want to use one brand of lens mount with another
entirely different camera system.
Q. I am a college
photographer working with liquid photo emulsion but cannot figure out
the proper developing times to produce a useable image or to even keep
an image outside the darkroom. I read the article you featured in Shutterbug
many months ago but it did not help. Is there anyone I could contact
for specific chemical and time use?
the liquid emulsion you have is the brand called Liquid Light, the firm's
current address is: Rockland Colloid Corp., PO Box 376, Piermont, NY
10968; (914) 359-5559; web site at: www.rockaloid.com Hopefully they
should be able to answer your questions about this product.
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