Outdoor Photography How To

Today we’re not going to get into another discussion of the many advantages of Raw files compared to JPEGs. Let’s just assume that, for whatever reason, you shot a bunch of JPEG images and they look really awful.

Let’s face it: Not all of us have the time or means to go on safari to photograph exotic animals in their natural habitat. The next best option is a trip to the local zoo with a long lens, and that can be a load of fun.

One of the first characteristics many photographers consider when evaluating a lens is how it renders out-of-focus portions of an image. Often referred to as background blur or bokeh, this attribute imparts a unique look and feel to an image that can be very visually appealing.

Lisbon-based travel and nature photographer Andy Mumford is known for awesome imagery, and his popular international workshops in all corners of the globe. Today he shares the advice he gives students regarding the best camera settings to use for compelling outdoor photos.

Photographers are known for chasing the latest and greatest gear, despite the adage that, “It’s the photographer—not the camera—that creates the image.” I’ll admit to owning a couple “state-of-the art” digital cameras myself. But my photo cabinet also includes a few “obsolete” models dating back to 2009.

One challenge with outdoor photography is that landscape scenes tend to be complicated, often confusing viewers and directing their gaze away from your main subject. One of the best methods for simplifying a busy photo is to blur the background, thereby emphasizing what you consider the key point of the shot.

Long telephoto lenses can be exciting to use, offering the unique ability to get in tight on distant subjects. But big glass doesn’t necessarily guarantee great photographs, unless you have the proper skills.