As you’ve no doubt learned by now there are often several ways to accomplish the same task in Photoshop. And sometimes the methods you choose depend upon what you plan do with the finished image.
Have you ever tried your hand at b&w landscape photography, expecting dramatic images, only to be disappointed by the results? If so, you’re not alone.
A couple weeks ago we featured an editing tutorial, explaining an easy way to create five unique effects using the Curves tool in Photoshop and Lightroom. Today instructor Scott Davenport is back with a bonus two-minute tip, demonstrating how easy it is to fix blown-out highlights using Curves.
Selecting the appropriate shutter speed for a given scene is important for most types of photography if you want the best possible results. This decision is important with landscapes and wildlife shots—particularly when shooting hand-held, for scenes with motion, and while using long lenses.
Guess what? Even professional shooters screw up on occasion; so don’t feel too bad about making mistakes. The trick is to not make the same error twice, and one way to avoid that is to learn from the foibles of experienced pros.
Experienced landscape photographers prefer shooting at two primes times of day, early morning or late afternoon. That’s because Blue Hour, just before sunset, is a great opportunity to make images with calm, blue tones. Golden Hour, at the end of the day, enables you imbue scenes with striking warm colors as the sun is about to set.
Sunrises and sunsets are among the most popular scenes for avid landscape photographers. Early morning images usually have ephemeral soft blue tones, while sunsets typically display striking yellows, oranges and reds.
Many inexperienced photographers make a simple mistake than can compromise the quality of their photos, and that’s thinking of a camera’s metering-mode options as a set-it-and-forget-it feature. If you’re guilty of this common error, the video below is for you.
Landscape photography is one of the most popular genres among Shutterbug readers, and the tutorials we post typically involve shooting and editing techniques for achieving great results. But today we’re taking s step back, with an important preliminary task you should perform before pulling a camera out of your bag.
Let’s fact it: Landscape photography can be really expensive. Not only do you need a good camera and an arsenal of great glass, but a solid tripod, filters, and a closet full of hiking gear and apparel for all seasons.
Put two outdoor photographers in the same place at the same time—one a pro and the other an amateur—and it’s likely their photos will differ dramatically, especially in terms of creativity. The reasons a pro usually wins include better composition, high-end gear, and a greater understanding of exposure techniques.
Apologies for the negative headline, but if your photos are really bad we think you should know why. You can thank us later for helping you up your game, after watching the video below.
It’s not impossible to capture compelling landscape photos on flat, foggy days, but more often these conditions result in boring, uninspiring images. If that’s what you get on your next outing in the field, we encourage you not to trash the photos with the intent on returning on a better day.
We regularly urge you to try something different, capture images outside your comfort zone, and create photos that stand out from the rest. Today’s beginners guide to panorama photography is a great way to do exactly that.
If your outdoor photographs often have blown-out highlights, crushed shadows, or a combination of both, our guess is that you’re not using exposure bracketing to perfect exposure when shooting in difficult lighting conditions. The tutorial below quickly explains how it’s done.