Your best bet is to turn off the flash as it is wasted as the subject is too distant for the light of the flash to reach and illuminate it. Second, because the light level is not very high, be sure the camera;s light meter is actually reading the subject, which may be aided by using a center-weight meter mode, Finally, the low level of illumination will not allow a high enough shutter speed to freeze the movement of the cars, so learn how to pan the camera with the movement of the cars on the track to make your exposures.

Minimum shutter speed to stop action is 1/250 second. You need to balance your exposure with ISO and aperture based on using 1/250 second shutter speed. Of course, this is easier with more expensive F2.8 fixed aperture zooms or fast prime lenses.

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I would like to know what setting would be best to use for night-time auto racing. There is above stadium lighting, the cars are going about 85 mph. I shoot with a Nikon D40x and have a external high speed flash with a deflector shield on it. The night shots are coming out blurry and a little dark. Any suggestions?

Here's a good tutorial I found on photographing motor sports.

How can it answer the original question concerning night-time racing when there is not a picture or word about shooting racing cars at night? Otherwise the article is good if you want static, boring, record photos of cars on a race track flatly lit in full sun.

Because it talks about the importance of practicing panning, just like you mentioned in your first reply.

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Your best bet is to turn off the flash as it is wasted as the subject is too distant for the light of the flash to reach and illuminate it. Second, because the light level is not very high, be sure the camera;s light meter is actually reading the subject, which may be aided by using a center-weight meter mode, Finally, the low level of illumination will not allow a high enough shutter speed to freeze the movement of the cars, so learn how to pan the camera with the movement of the cars on the track to make your exposures.

When I am taking night shots, I am in the pit area of the track and the cars are about 15-20 feet from where I shoot from. Is this too far for the flash? I have been trying to pan with the movement of the cars and my day shots turn out excellent. It is the night shots that come out blurry. I'll get one or two good shots, but would like to have some more. Thank you.

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Minimum shutter speed to stop action is 1/250 second. You need to balance your exposure with ISO and aperture based on using 1/250 second shutter speed. Of course, this is easier with more expensive F2.8 fixed aperture zooms or fast prime lenses.
Thank you. I'll try this tonight and see if my night shots turn out better tonight.

I cannot believe you would consider even a shoe-mount flash at that close a distance to photograph a race event in action at night. If a driver's eyes were pointed in your direction when the flash went off they would be effectively blinded at 15-20 feet for at least a couple of seconds.

So you want me to advise you to use a flash in those circumstances? I cannot think of anything more irresponsible!

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I cannot believe you would consider even a shoe-mount flash at that close a distance to photograph a race event in action at night. If a driver's eyes were pointed in your direction when the flash went off they would be effectively blinded at 15-20 feet for at least a couple of seconds.

So you want me to advise you to use a flash in those circumstances? I cannot think of anything more irresponsible!

Thank you. I was just about to reply with this as I read the thread.

I'll see what I can do to get some shots, post them up with the metadata. What lens(es) do you have to choose from? Hopefully I'll be able to shoot this in a similar range with settings that can be achieved by your equipment.

Hi. I shot night time modified & sprint cars for over 20 years but with film Nikons. I used an 85mm for modifieds and a 105 for sprints which kept me about 25 feet or so off the edge of the track. I used ISO 400 film pushed to 1600 so ISO 1600 would be a good starting ISO. I also used a powerful flash from Sunpak, Metz, Norman and a Lumedyne. You need a good strobe and good panning. The dude that said firing a flash at a driver if he is looking at you doesn't know what he is talking about. If the driver is looking at you you better run because he is on the infield and if you don't run you're gonna get splattered.