| |
The
soft, halo shadow produced by the ringlight is evident
around these two cups. It makes an excellent method of
recording the detail of the design pattern we needed to
show to the firm we hope will have replacements available
for this long discontinued pattern. Canon EOS A2, 35-135mm
lens at 135mm macro, program automatic on Kodak Gold 100
film.
Photos © 1999, Robert E. Mayer, All Rights Reserved
|
|
Extremely simplified shadowless
electronic flash lighting is often difficult to achieve. This type of
soft, diffused light is most suitable for a wide variety of tiny subjects
recorded close-up and other nearby conventional objects. Typical subjects
ideal for this type of lighting are small, highly detailed objects such
as jewelry, watches, coins, stamps, electronics, etc. These are the
typical types of items a single, harsh, direct flash unit just does
not illuminate properly since they tend to cast strong, frequently objectionable
shadows.
For really easy shadowless lighting with any autofocus SLR camera at
distances of up to about 5' with ISO 100 films, try the new Phoenix
RL-59C ringlight. The body of this flash unit looks like any conventional
hot shoe flash and has a tilting top portion of the body similar to
a bounce capability found on a regular shoe flash unit, but the flash
head with its reflector is missing. Instead there is a heavy coiled
connecting cord coming out of the top to permanently connect the body
to lightweight, ringlight, flash tube housing.
|
| |
The
even, shadowless lighting produced by the ring flash accentuates
the detail found in small coins and tokens, but you still
have to be careful for unwanted reflections. Canon EOS A2,
35-135mm lens at 135mm macro plus Canon 450 CU lens, program
automatic on Kodak Gold 100 film.
|
|
Four AA-size alkaline or NiCd
batteries power the unit. The battery cover comes off easily, but you
must press in on the outer two, then the inner two batteries slightly
to allow the cover to slide back into place. I would have liked the markings
inside the compartment showing the proper battery orientation to be a
bit more legible, but in good light you can tell exactly which way the
positive terminal goes.
The operational controls found on the back of the unit are sparse and
simple. In the middle there is a power on/off switch; a ready light (that
glows orange when the unit has recharged); and an auto check light (that
glows green to confirm adequate exposure for the subject measured by the
camera's TTL metering system). There is an open flash button on
the base just above the locking shoe mount. That's it. There's
a sliding scale on the rear of the unit just above the controls for setting
the ISO film speed and determining the f/stop for any particular flash
to subject distance. However, this scale is only needed for determining
manual exposures. If you use the unit with a dedicated SLR, everything
is preset for you in a program automatically with full TTL flash metering.
You don't have to set or adjust anything. Since it automatically
couples through multiple contact terminals in the hot shoe with the camera's
electronics, the proper flash synch shutter speed is set for you as is
the lens aperture. You won't find any accessory flash unit that's
easier to use.
|
| |
Small,
intricate detail inside an old VCR was easily recorded with
the ringlight. There are no bothersome shadows to obscure
portions of the mechanism. Canon EOS A2, 35-135mm lens at
135mm macro plus Canon 450 CU lens, program automatic on
Kodak Gold 100 film.
|
|
It's easy to attach the
flash to the camera for use. Just slide the body of the flash unit onto
the flash shoe as you would a conventional auxiliary flash unit, then
lock it in place with the knurled locking knob. Now you must place the
ring flash housing onto the lens filter threads. First place one of the
supplied adapter rings (49, 52, 55, or 58mm) onto the camera's filter
threads. Then fasten the ring flashlight head to the camera adapter ring
by rotating a large knurled attachment disk that is permanently fastened
to the rear of the light. The knurled edges make it easy to turn the disk
which moves freely--totally independent of the flash head--so you don't
have to be concerned about twisting the connector cord, which might become
wrapped around the lens if you had to actually rotate the head. The ring
flash head is easily held steady in one position with one hand and only
the disk must be rotated to make the connection. You have to be careful
not to cross thread the adapter rings, but if you keep the unit flat against
the lens there is normally no problem.
There is a large single LED AF assist illuminator on the front of the
flash unit that is activated when the shutter release is pressed halfway.
It has an effective range of 3.3-10' with a 50mm normal lens. The
heavy coil cord that connects the flash head to the unit body can accidentally
get in the way of the illuminator light path, but I found my EOS A2 autofocusing
to be consistently on target even when the cord partially obstructed the
light.
There is only one caution about using this ringlight. It should not be
used with any lens shorter than 50mm focal length or the corners of the
frame will be vignetted. You can use it with a zoom lens, just be sure
the range in use is longer than 50mm. I used it with 35-135mm and 35-105mm
Canon zoom lenses with no problem at all. I purposely tried a few exposures
at focal lengths shorter than 50mm and got the anticipated vignetting--a
white cropping of the corners.
|
| |
These
yellow tiger lilies were in open shade, so the ring flash
provided nearly all of the light for this shot. Since the
light falls off rapidly, the background went dark helping
accentuate the blossom. Canon EOS A2, 35-135mm lens at 135mm
macro, program automatic on Kodak Elitechrome 200 Select
film.
|
|
Although there is a test flash
button on the unit, this merely fires the flash for checking glare or
coverage while looking at the subject through the SLR viewfinder. The
output is a weaker flash than the normal TTL metered output would be;
thus it cannot be used with a flash meter to check the exposure for using
the flash on manual. When I wanted to make some bracketed exposures, I
just switched the camera over from program automatic to manual, referred
to the guide on the back, then extensively bracketed the exposures to
get an idea of the units output. It would have been nice to have a method
of setting the flash on manual so it could be used other than TTL metering,
but the metered program automatic exposures of nearby objects up to about
5-7' were so consistently good that totally automatic seems to be
more than adequate.
The GN scale on the back of the power unit gives the approximate exposure
at various distances in feet and meters. The distance range is from 3-60',
which I personally found to be not of much use since most of my close-up
exposures were made at distances of less than 3'. The scale does
provide you with some "ballpark" apertures to use from which
you can bracket your manual exposures.
|
|
Practical Use Test
Results. The ring flash was simple to attach and use with either
model of Canon SLR cameras. The ringlight is only slightly larger than
a lens hood and does not weigh much more, so the camera handled and balanced
nearly the same as without the flash attached. Even the shoe-mounting
portion of the unit is relatively light and small leaving the camera very
hand holdable when everything is attached. The fact that the top of the
unit can be tilted down makes it easy to maneuver the connecting coil
cord to a position where it does not bother you. There is more than adequate
length on the coil cord (it easily stretches out to arm's length),
so the ringlight can be positioned anywhere around the lens and even used
with a quite long prime telephoto or tele-zoom lens if desired.
The extra weight of the flash head and heavy coil cord attached to the
front of one zoom lens (a Canon EOS 35-135mm) caused the lens focal length
to change by itself when used with the lens pointing down. Other zoom
lenses probably don't move as easily when zoomed, so this should
not be any problem with most zoom lenses. Besides, it only happened when
pointing the lens up or down at extreme angles. When used relatively horizontally
with this zoom lens there was no unwanted focal length change.
My practical use testing was done primarily with slow speeds of chrome
films including Fujichrome Velvia 50, Agfachrome 50, Kodak Ektachrome
Elite 100, Ektachrome Elite II 100, and new Kodak Elitechrome 200 Select.
All of my E-6 chrome films were processed at Accu-Color Labs, Inc., Fort
Wayne, Indiana. I also exposed a roll of Kodak Gold 100 color negative
film.
The sample Phoenix RL-59C ring flash I received was dedicated for Canon
SLRs so most of my tests were made using a Canon EOA A2 AF SLR with a
35-135mm Canon lens. But I also exposed several rolls in my older Canon
T-90 SLR with a 35-105mm zoom lens, which also has program automation
but no autofocusing. To enable more detailed close-ups closer than the
macro settings available on these two zoom lenses, I also used a Canon
1800 (weak, 1/2 diopter) or 450 (strong) close-up lens placed on the zoom
lens before attaching the ringlight to permit considerably closer focusing.
Close-up lenses do not require any exposure adjustment, but even if extension
tubes had been used, since the metering is TTL, the exposure factor would
be compensated for automatically.
When photographing any highly reflective or mirror-like surface such as
jewelry, coins, electronic circuit boards, etc., you still have to be
careful about reflections back into the camera lens that would cause highlights
or glare. The weak, test flash feature is very necessary in judging whether
this type of reflection will be a problem while looking through the SLR
viewfinder. Since the ringlight is attached rather permanently to the
camera lens, it remains constantly parallel to the film plane, so it cannot
be adjusted or angled to minimize this bounce-back glare. The only solution
is to tilt or angle the subject slightly, so it is not completely parallel
to the film plane and thereby decreases the reflection. This is very simple
to do and neatly eliminates bothersome reflections. For several images
of printed circuit boards and shiny coins simply tilting the subject slightly,
while the camera was fixed in position on a copy stand, effectively minimized
the bothersome glare.
My totally automatic exposures made with TTL program automatic internal
metering were consistently well exposed at an aperture of f/5.6. At the
farther ranges of the flash range (7' or thereabout) they tended
to be darker and underexposed, but the fact that the confirmation check
light on the flash did not glow green warned me of this. The color balance
visible on my MacBeth Color Checker and an 18 percent gray card was excellent.
I made comparison exposures using the ring flash, the camera's built-in
flash, a Canon 540EZ shoe mount flash, and an AC powered studio flash
and could not detect any visible difference when viewing the color chart
chromes on a GraphicLite standard illuminator.
If you want to use an aperture smaller than f/5.6 to obtain better depth
(and this is usually best for most close-up subjects), you can switch
the camera over to aperture priority automatic and use whatever aperture
you desire. Exposures will still be totally automatic since the flash
unit/camera electronics will set the correct shutter speed in aperture
priority mode and you adjust the lens aperture yourself.
Several shots of a model using the ringlight had mixed results. As anticipated,
the soft, wraparound lighting was pleasing for female features, but it
showed every blemish and detail vividly. Around the head and shoulders
there is a halo-like soft shadow. I anticipated finding a vivid round
ring reflection in her eyes similar to the large round reflections seen
in eyes when using a translucent shoot-through umbrella, but this was
not evident on even tight face close-up views.
The 6 sec or less recycle time is adequately rapid so you can make exposures
in quick sequence. Even if you use the test light often to check for glare,
the recycle time remains rapid since the test light is at a weaker output,
so it does not use much of the stored charge.
I found the Phoenix RL-59 ring flash to be a very handy and accurate accessory
for close-up shots of all types of small subjects. It would be an asset
for anybody who frequently photographs small items and it would be helpful
for certain types of female glamour subjects if they are relatively nearby--about
5' or closer. I found the TTL metered automatic exposures on sensitive,
color slide film to be very accurate and consistent, if you stay within
the recommended flash range and don't try to use the unit at focal
lengths shorter than about 50mm. If you want to be able to use smaller
than f/5.6 apertures on the lens for more depth of field, simply switch
the camera over to aperture priority and you will have complete control
of the lens opening.
For further information about the new Phoenix RL-59 continuous circle
ring flash see your local dealer or contact the importer: Phoenix Corporation
of America, 112 Mott St., Oceanside, NY 11572, (516) 764-5890, fax: (516)
764-5970. The suggested list price is $200 and it's available in
mounts compatible with Canon, Nikon, Minolta, or Pentax AF dedicated flash
cameras.
Technical Specifications
Guide
Number: 59 (ISO 100 in feet)
Color Temperature: 5600°K
Flash Duration: 1/1000 sec in manual mode; 1/1000-1/40,000
sec in auto TTL mode
Recycle Time: Approximately 0.5-6 sec (with alkaline
batteries)
Auto Setting: Varies
Auto Illuminator Range: 0.5"-10'
Applicable Lens: Focal lengths longer than 50mm
Power Source: Four 1.5v alkaline batteries
Battery Life: 120-2000 flashes
Mounting: Hot shoe
Dimensions: 6x2.5x1.8" (flash unit w/o ring flash)
Weight: 8 oz (without batteries)
Compatibility: Models available for use with Canon, Nikon,
Minolta, and Pentax AF cameras
|