The best advise you will get is from the feedback your camera will give you in the pictures you make. So just go out and shoot as much as you can. Fortunately with digital it is cheap to do, no film to buy or process.

I do appreciate the reply and will keep that in mind. I am currently deployed in the middle of the ocean so my resources are limited as to where I can get input and advice. Not alot to shoot out here. There is alot of water but it gets old after a few months. I had hoped there might be some specific insight about the camera and lenses I have. maybe I am just not asking the right way. Very new to this all and thank you again for your input.

JC

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I just made the switch from a Digital Sony Super Steady Shot 5.1 MP to the Canon EOS 30D. I am completely new to DSLR's and would like some input on my choices. I also picked up a Sigma 18-200mm F3.5-6.3 DC AF-MF Zoom Lens. I have no idea if this was a wise choice for my first lens or how it will limit or contribute to my photo taking experience.

Pretty much the best choice of focal lengths for all purpose photography. Equivalent to a 28mm wide angle to a 320mm telephoto. As you approach the 200mm end, be very aware of your shutter speeds when hand holding. In 35mm terms, there is a rule of thumb for the minimum shutter speed to use - 1/focal length. Since your lens is equivalent to 320mm, a speed of 1/320 or shorter should be used. I suggest you do actual tests to see what you personally can achieve. At the 200mm end, a monopod or a tripod can help enormously.

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To top it all off I picked up a Vitacon DSLR HD PRO-SERIES MC AF DIGITAL 0.5X Wide Angle Lens and a UV and Polarizer filter.

Here, the salesdroid may have taken advantage of you. When camcorders first became a fad, a lot were sold cheaply with very limited range zoom lenses. A couple of far-east optical factories saw an opportunity and began selling low quality "conversion" lenses that screwed into the zooms. With the quality of home TV sets back then the fuzzy quality was hidden by the poor image of the camcorder and analogue TV. The same lenses were sold under dozens of brand names at widely varying prices.

Then along came the digital camcorders with sharp image quality and long zooms. The market evaporated.

Some bright marketer noticed that the first still digital cameras were trickling onto the market, so instead of trying to sell the lenses as paperweights, they had stickers printed up with things like "Digital Ready", "Professional" and so on. Not only that, but they upped the price tremendously which scammer retailers in Brooklyn really loved. Same old bottle-glass in new packaging and whole new flock of sheep to be fleeced.

You may or may not have bought one of these things. I would highly recommend testing before using it on any important subject matter. There is a vast difference between a blurry 1970s TV and a 2007 Canon. Check the results. At worst it will be a "special effects" lens and part time paperweight.

High quality conversion lenses are made for compact cameras by Canon, Nikon, etc., and they can produce superb quality photographs. However, none are made for their dSLRs, since the lenses are interchangeable and one can buy a prime or zoom lens at whatever focal length one needs.

UV lenses are useless on digital cameras - the white balance simply neutralizes any effect and UV filtration is already built in. The exception is a special purpose camera from Fujifilm - the IS Pro - for scientific and forensic photography, designed to work at ultraviolet and infrared wavelengths.

Some are sold as "protection", and this is a scam that goes back decades and most every store does it. Every lens ships with a lens cap, which is much more effective and included in the price. Polaroid filters are really the only filter useful for digital photography. However, they take a good deal of understanding and skill, to use effectively.

HOLY MONKEY now that is the kind of answer I was looking for. You were correct about the UV filter being sold as a scratch proof protection while actually using the camera. I guess it will just help to keep my camera bag looking less empty until I can add to it. Most likly later on, I spent a good chunk right off.

As far as the Conversion wide angle, fish eye/macro. I am not sure how to test it. I took a picture at the Singapore Zoo of a pond with Giant lilly pads and could clearly see the fish eye effect. I have never used one before but the effect was there. Also I took some pictures with the wide angle part removed and the portion for macro left on. I could only focus when I was right up on an object. When I focused in on some flowers for example only the middle flower or couple flowers would be in focus, right up close and very clear, the rest would seem dropped back and out of focus. I am sure there are better lenses I could buy and would love to get some sugestions. Wide angle, fish eye and macro.

I have no idea what the polarizer filter is supposed to do. I am assuming that it will help to bring out some color but then again it is darker and might tone them down.

I like to back pack and go on day hikes , could you sugest a tripod and mono pod for my camera, ont that will do everything I might need it to and be light enough for me to carry for 3 to 5 days on my back?

I am very egar to learn and I am so very happy you took that much time to help me. I will try not to ask too many questions but if so I really hope more people will be as kind as you have and put down what they know and have time for.

Thank you very much,

JC

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HOLY MONKEY now that is the kind of answer I was looking for. You were correct about the UV filter being sold as a scratch proof protection while actually using the camera. I guess it will just help to keep my camera bag looking less empty until I can add to it. Most likly later on, I spent a good chunk right off.

I carried a perfectly clear optical glass filter in case I might sometime be assigned to take some shots when abrasives were being used - sand-blasting, close-up on a grinding wheel, that sort of thing. Over the decades, I never needed it once, even though I did a considerable amount of industrial photography.

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As far as the Conversion wide angle, fish eye/macro. I am not sure how to test it.

Testing should always take place when there is no need to get pictures that are keepers. When you are after keepers, that is called a "shoot" in photo jargon. "Testing" is like a musician practicing between concerts. It is the time you spend learning the equipment and advancing your knowledge of photographic techniques. In the case of the lens, shoot pictures in the room - subject does not matter much, as long as it has straight lines. A bookcase would do fine. Check the results for sharpness, see if it keeps the lines straight or if they bow inwards or outwards. Basically determine whether the results are acceptable. When you have determined the results, then you can delete the files if you wish.

The same thing applies to hand-holding the zoom lens at its maximum telephoto position. I got the impression that you are on a ship, if so, hand-holding becomes an even greater challenge. Go on deck and see what shutter speed you need to get sharpness. Point the camera at some detail and try a variety of shutter speeds and compare the results.

Testing time is also a good time to go through the manual - it is your best friend. Go through it page by page from beginning to end and try everything covered on each page. You are shooting digital, so you get instant feedback, and the exposures cost nothing. dSLRs are complex and sophisticated image acquisition devices almost to the point of becoming overwhelming, so some study is needed. Learn as much as you can, and then practice for a month or two, then review the manual. You will be amazed at how much more you pick up the second time through.

By developing the habit of constantly testing, you will quickly improve your skills, your pictures and your fun when doing a shoot. During testing, you can take all manner of chances, because when something does not work, you have not lost anything. If something does not work on a shoot, you lose everything. Testing is where you find the solution, so disasters are actually good things.

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I took a picture at the Singapore Zoo of a pond with Giant lilly pads and could clearly see the fish eye effect. I have never used one before but the effect was there. Also I took some pictures with the wide angle part removed and the portion for macro left on. I could only focus when I was right up on an object. When I focused in on some flowers for example only the middle flower or couple flowers would be in focus, right up close and very clear, the rest would seem dropped back and out of focus.

You have just run into "depth of field". The closer you get to the subject, the shallower the DOF becomes. Going to a smaller (numerically larger) aperture will gain a bit more. When you are at the telephoto end of the zoom, using a wide aperture will allow you to photograph a person with the background a soft blur, which can be very attractive. The longer the focal length - for a given aperture - the shallower the DOF. Something else to play with when testing.

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I am sure there are better lenses I could buy and would love to get some sugestions. Wide angle, fish eye and macro.

You have an extremely versatile lens, and may never need anything else. Work with it, and learn. If sometime down the road you find you have an ongoing problem that the current lens and camera don't handle well, it should become clear what your next purpose should be. The best time to buy equipment, is when you understand the problem and can clearly define both the problem and the solution.

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I have no idea what the polarizer filter is supposed to do. I am assuming that it will help to bring out some color but then again it is darker and might tone them down.

Ignore it for the moment. Concentrate on becoming fluent with the camera and lens, image processing and so on. When you reach a comfort zone, then scan the web for information on use of the Polaroid filter. It does some amazing things, but these are quite advanced techniques.

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I like to back pack and go on day hikes , could you sugest a tripod and mono pod for my camera, ont that will do everything I might need it to and be light enough for me to carry for 3 to 5 days on my back?

A monopod also makes a very nice hiking stick, and can be used as a defensive weapon in a riot. I have two, one quite substantial, three sections, nice foam grip and so on. Lousy for traveling, so I also got a lighter, five section monopod that fits easily inside luggage.

I really like tripods and monopods that use clips on the legs. Much faster to set up than with threaded locks. I also like tripods that come without heads. I bought an nice little ball head that works both on the tripod and the monopod.

Monopods are great for action, you can pan with a racing car using a slow shutter speed making the background blur with the car sharp. Great for all kinds of sports and added support when in low light. If you can hand-hold your lens at maximum zoom at 1/500th of a second, you can probably get sharp images with a monopod at 1/125th or even slower. Monopods and telephoto lenses are a fine combination.

Tripods are lousy in crowded areas when people may trip over the legs. No such problem with monopods. Tripods are at their best for contemplative photography. Also great when light is very low - one can take some amazing pictures using long shutter speeds. I have both a full-sized tripod and a couple of small table-top devices, and use them all. Go for a monopod first. Finally when you are in a place where you can compare tripods, that is the time to shop. Check them for weight and sturdiness, size and ease of setup.

Consider buying a tripod without a head, and choosing the best head that is comfortable for you. Pan heads are great for movies, but I prefer the speed and ease of a ball head for stills. The same head can be used on the monopod, making the shooting vertical compositions much more comfortable. In a camera store, you can try the various combinations, and come up with the mix that suits you best. Tripod buying is very chancy across the web, since the choice is very personal. Hands-on is really needed.

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I am very egar to learn and I am so very happy you took that much time to help me. I will try not to ask too many questions but if so I really hope more people will be as kind as you have and put down what they know and have time for.

Thank you very much,

JC

On the contrary, ASK LOTS of questions! It is questions that power these forums. There are lots of veteran shooters here who want to share their experience - to give back to the community and art that gave them so much over the years. Also realize that when you ask a question and get an answer, hundreds of other people will read and learn. When you ask a question, you help everyone.

I also maintain a web-site, that is constantly growing. Many of the topics come from questions just like yours. While it would be difficult to verbally guide you through use of a Polaroid filter here, on my web site I can use as much space as needed, and add illustrations. I will consider creating a tutorial sometime in the future. Please feel free to browse my site - URL below my signature.