What is it that you think you need a light meter for? Are you doing photography that the meter in the camera isn't sufficient for?

The cheaper meters usually only deliver values in lux or footcandles, then depend on you to convert to the appropriate settings. You can find the charts easily on the internet, remember to up-convert or down-convert for your ASA.

If you want to save a few bucks this isn't a terrible way to go, although it can be cumbersome.

Stay away from the "vintage" meters. These use a sensor that breaks down in light, and are unreliable after 5-10 years.

If you have a PDA with a web browser, I wrote an exposure calculator that works pretty well. It's not quite done, but I can share what I have if anyone is interested.

I have several light meters, and hope to acquire some more -with time.

Two of them are over 50 years old (Cadmium Sulphide cells). One is a Weston Master, the other a Konica. Both still work very well and don't use batteries!

Readings are are given as both EV values and in direct, equivalent, shutter and aperture value combinations. The Weston-Master is for both incident as well as reflected light readings, the Konica works chiefly with reflected light, although it also has a provision for limited "incident" indoor artificial lighting conditions.

The various dials provide readings for exposure compensation as well as a shadow/highlight averaging reading.

They are both "fun" to use, though they can't compete with the automatic exposure functions built into more modern cameras for speed or convenience!

My veteran "Ricoh 300" RF has no on-board lightmeter, so I have to rely on one of these meters for a reading and hope the clouds don't cause a change in lighting before I've had time to take the shot.

While using one of these items, it's surprising what you do pick up about lighting conditions.

Just 'cause its old, its not necessarily inferior!

Kodak used to sell a pocket exposure calculator, just a 2x3 inch card with a round dial, The various light conditions, bright sun, overcast were positions as were film speed, and if you matched the conditions and film speed you could read the aperture and film speeds combinations that were recommended. That little Kodak calculator usually provided better, more reliable exposures than I ever got with any selenium cell meter I used back in the 50's. I think Kodak priced the pocket calculator in the early 50's at $1.00.