PLEASE READ THIS
BEFORE WRITING TO HELP!
Several alert HELP! readers
saw my November 1998 reply to reader Sydney Wolfe who was seeking a
source for Liquid Light and sent detailed information about where they
obtain this product. One reader, Daniel Zirinsky, even sent copies of
instructions on using the product and the firm's current address
which is: Rockland Colloid Corp., PO Box 376, Piermont, NY 10968; (914)
359-5559; web site at www:rocklaloid.com Mail order sources include:
B&H Photo, 420 9th Ave., New York, NY 10001; (800) 947-9002 for
orders only, who offer this product in their monthly ad. Light Impressions,
439 Monroe Ave., Rochester, NY 14607; (716) 271-8960, where 8 oz. costs
$22.75, or Porter's Camera Store, PO Box 628, Cedar Falls, IA
50613; (888) 767-8377, where a pint bottle lists for $33.95. We appreciate
these readers bringing this oversight on what should have been obvious
sources of this unique product to my attention. We will forward this
information to reader Wolfe.
Q. I need a copy
of the instructions for a General Electric exposure meter type PR-1.
My usual recommendation is to contact John Craig, PO Box 1637, Torrington,
CT 06790; (860)496-9791. At a photo swap meet recently I learned of
another firm that also specializes in old photo product instruction
books. Finger Lakes Photo Books, PO Box 309, Aurora, NY 13026; (315)
364-9581. Hopefully one of these will be able to assist you. I sincerely
doubt that GE would have instructions still available for a product
that has been discontinued for about 20 years.
Q. Recently at a
local garage sale I ran across a Nimslo 3D camera that was new in the
box. I took it home, put it together, and ran a roll of film through
it. When I sent it to a post office box in Atlanta, Georgia as directed,
my film came back unprocessed and I was told the PO Box was closed.
Now where can I send the film to be processed?
I have several firms listed in my files that still process and print
color negatives exposed in various brands and models of three and four
lens 3D cameras. One in NimsTec, 4850 River Green Pkwy., Duluth, GA
30096; (770) 497-0727. They can process and print negatives made by
NimsTec, Nishika, or Nimslo cameras. In addition, they make color enlargements
from 5x7 up to 27x36" for display. Another is Weber's 3D
Photo of America, Inc., 246 Grand St., New York, NY 10002; (212) 431-5580.
Finally there is 3D Image Technology, Inc., 5172-G Brook Hollow Pkwy.,
Norcross, GA 30071; (770) 416-8848. The last firm can process and print
three-lens 3D lenticular images. But they do not do four lens negatives.
I would contact each of these labs and find out what the processing
and printing charges are before sending any film to them. I have not
had any recent contact with any of them so am not positive they still
are offering this service or what their charges are today. Be forewarned,
in the past the price for processing and printing 3D pictures was considerably
more than conventional 35mm film processing and printing and takes a
week or longer.
Q. I own several
high quality point-and-shoot cameras. Leica CZX2, Rollei Prego 90, and
Yashica T4. I like to shoot landscapes and/or scenics. My problem is
I like to use a lot of black and white film but none of these cameras
will take a filter (polarizer, yellow, orange, red, etc.). What do you
you have discovered, most recent models of point-and-shoot cameras have
no thread for attaching filters or anything else to the lens. I don't
know of any method of attaching a filter to such cameras. Besides, even
if you were able to attach a filter, since they do not have TTL exposure
metering, there would be no method for adjusting the exposure to account
for the filter factor. If any of your cameras has exposure compensation,
you could approximate the increased exposure needed. Today all products,
even the high quality models, seem to be targeted for the individual
looking for a really simple, easy to use camera without all the extra
attachment features we used to find commonplace. For instance, few new
compact cameras have a cable release socket. I believe several years
ago Lindahl introduced an acrylic filter holder that attached via the
tripod socket to the base of a camera so you could use filters that
require precise positioning (such as a polarizer, graduated density,
etc.). This was intended for use with AF cameras having a rotating lens
that would change the filter position when the focus was adjusted. I
believe you might be able to use this with your compact camera. To check
on this or obtain their catalog, contact: Lindahl Specialties, Inc.,
PO Box 1365, Elkhart, IN 46515; (219) 296-7823.
Q. I seek the wisdom
of the assembled experts here on the Internet. I'm a magazine
editor for whom portrait photography is a secondary duty. (I take photos
of the subjects of Q&A interviews.) My question is--if you were
me and had to pack all your photo gear (Nikon 35mm system) into just
one carryon sized hard case, what would you select to get the job done?
Lighting is one obvious limitation, and lens variety is the other. Tripods
and umbrellas seem to require more bulk than I can manage (given everything
else one takes on business travel) so that's why I stick with
one carryon case. Are there compact solutions (lighting expecially)
I should look into? FWIW at the moment I use an N6006 with the 28-80
and 80-200 zooms (variable aperture, not the pro-grade fixed) and an
85 1.8, plus a Metz flash. Backup body is that cute little seldom-sung
EM with an E series 50 1.8. If you had this crazy assignment--very limited
cubic footage--how would you fill the case? I've been shooting
with Nikons for 15 years but am still very much an amateur--not enough
talent in this feeble brain to make a living with a camera. Words I
can do wonders with. With film I get acceptable results but not remarkable
ones. Improving steadily at 50 or so rolls per year--usually 10-15 percent
of all shots are at least worth considering for use in the magazine.
Yours in curiosity.
You did not say whether your Metz flash for your Nikon SLR was a shoe
mount unit or handle mount connected via a PC cord. If it is a shoe
mount Metz, get a dedicated off-camera cord that allows you to hand
hold the flash at arm's length above and to the left of the camera.
Just getting the one main flash up and away from the lens a few feet
helps single flash lighting immensely since the shadow now goes down
below the person's head instead of directly behind it. For even
better lighting, get a Lumiquest white diffuser (that folds flat when
not in use) or one of the other similar brands of folding units that
will attach to the flash head to soften the light output. With either
of these modifications you still retain full dedication automatic operation
with TTL metering for exposures. A third improvement would be to obtain
a small slave flash, such as the Morris Mini or the many clones. It's
about the size of a small tape measure and can be placed practically
anywhere such as behind the subject to either light the background,
or pointed toward their head to provide some side or back lighting which
helps separate the head from the background. The light from the slave
is weak and will not alter your primary light appreciably. These all
are easy to come by, moderate priced items and not particularly bulky
for carrying along. If your Metz flash is a handle mount with dedicated
connecting cord, you can still get a Lumiquest that will fit it and
the Morris slave. I hope this will assist you in your travels to obtain
easier portraits to illustrate your articles.
Q. I recently inherited
an old Pentax camera and I'm trying to find some information about
it. It is a Honeywell Pentax H3 No. 440XXX. The thing that I find unusual
is that the body is brass not chrome or nickel-plated. I called Pentax
in Colorado and all they could find was an H3V. I hope you can find
some info on this camera.
I checked with my contacts at Pentax and they told me the H3V model
had a self-timer, otherwise they were the same. He further said that
the camera was not manufactured as a brass model and thought possibly
the finish had worn off. That's about all I can provide in additional
information for you.
Q. I was recently
given the bad news that a roll of irreplaceable Ektachrome had been
accidentally run through C-41 (color negative) processing instead of
E-6 (color transparency processing). With all of the computer generated
imaging options available today, is there not some way to scan the negatives,
correct the color balance, and digitally reconstruct the image back
as a transparency? If so, who might do this?
I called Kodak's hotline (800 242-2424) to try to find a solution
for your dilemma. They did not know of any digitizing process but suggested
you might want to have most any lab try to print your negative (that
does not have the usual orange color negative mask) sandwiched with
a strip of clear color negative film to serve as the needed orange mask.
This, with a bit of "tweaking" by the printer operator should
produce an acceptable color print. If this can be done, a pro lab should
be able to use the same method to produce a color transparency from
the negative in the same manner as they produce transparencies from
normal color negatives. It sounds like a feasible solution to me and
should be worth trying.
Q. The photo I sent
to you is of one of the hydrometers I have. The other one was made by
Burke and James. It is definitely not an actinometer unless the photo
of the actinometer I have seen is mislabeled. I have also seen a definition
that states an actinometer is an exposure meter built like a pocket
watch and is also called a tint meter. I am interested in what photo
process was used for it. I have shown the photo to many collectors of
photographic equipment and all they can tell me is that they are hydrometers
or give me the definition of what an actinometer is. Thanks.
photo provided (along with a ruler which provided scale) was of a 6.5
long, thin glass tube with two bulbs at one end. Inside the tube was
this writing "Actinometer Temp. 60 degrees F. Eastman Kodak Co."
Q. Does anybody publish
an illustrated used camera price guide that not only lists cameras,
specifications, and all of their accessories but pictures of them as
well? I know it is asking a lot, but I buy all of my equipment from
the advertisers' sections of Shutterbug and need to see what I'm
buying. I would be more than happy to pay for such a price guide. If
any reader knows about such a thing, fax me at (509) 628-9548 or contact
me at (509) 628-9818.
I have about a dozen reference books for older equipment I normally
refer to when attempting to identify older equipment readers write about.
Unfortunately, most only illustrate cameras (either with a photo or
drawing on the older items), include a brief description of the camera,
and give recent prices, usually in dollars. If accessories are mentioned,
it is normally only in text with no illustration of the item. Of the
books I have McBroom's Camera Bluebook probably comes the closest
to what you seek. It lists the cameras by manufacturer, has photos of
the cameras, and also lists many of the lenses, flash units, and other
accessories giving pricing new and in several levels of used conditions.
One book does have illustrations of nearly all of the products mentioned,
Kennedy's International Camera Price Guide has one-quarter page
photo and text on each item. Other books have fewer photos. McKeown's
Price Guide to Cameras is one of the thicker books, but there are illustrations
on only about one-fourth of the items; The Register of 35mm Single Lens
Reflex Cameras by Rudolph Lea also does not have photos of all items
but the text is more detailed; finally The Blue Book from Hove includes
brief descriptions on many cameras and photos of some of them. I hope
this brief list will assist you in locating a reference book to assist
you in buying equipment. If any of our readers know of other helpful
books, they can contact you directly at your phone/fax numbers, which
you provided. Good luck in your quest.
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