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Very few point-and-shoots feature filter-handling ability.
Among those that do are this vintage Rollei 35, along
with the current Contax TVS (35mm) and TIX (APS).
Photos © 1999, Dave Howard, All Rights Reserved
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If taking pictures in black
and white is a regular part of your photographic way of life, then it
must puzzle and frustrate you a bit, as it does me, that the makers
of most point-and-shoot cameras seem to have never heard of black and
white film. Otherwise why would they produce hundreds of otherwise fun
little cameras with absolutely no means of using filters on them? Granted,
black and white snapshooters are few and far between among the masses
of general picture-taking consumers, but serious photo hobbyists hate
being forced to give up filter capability. After all, how much extra
would it cost to add filter threads to a lens?
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The
compact Rollei and Contaxes accept 30.5mm filters; a 67mm
filter is included here for size comparison.
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Black and white fans shopping
for a new point-and-shoot should look for a few critical features. First,
obviously, would be a model that accepts filters. The bad news is that
there aren't many. Contax is the only manufacturer that I'm
familiar with that consistently provides filter threads on their point-and-shoot
camera lenses. The original T and TVS models, along with the current T2,
TVS II, and TIX (APS), all accept 30.5mm screw-in filters (an adapter
is required with the TIX), as do all of the vintage Rollei 35-series cameras
with the 40mm f/2.8 Sonnar lens. You won't find 30.5mm filters (or
any of several other small, "oddball" filter sizes) in your
average photo department, but B+W (Schneider) and Heliopan (HP Marketing)
filters in this size can be special ordered from camera stores that cater
to professionals. At least one regular Shutterbug advertiser, KOH's
Camera, keeps several of the most popular tints in stock. Most photographers
will simply be looking to add a couple of basic filters to their compact
camera, such as a medium yellow and an orange, or perhaps a yellow and
a polarizer, so they won't go broke needlessly duplicating their
SLR's filter arsenal.
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A
double-stick-taped piece of gel filter is a quick-and-dirty
way to fool a camera with no filter capability; be sure
to filter the meter window as well.
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Another important feature is
some means of compensating for the filter factor, in order to avoid underexposing
the film. An exposure compensation dial is ideal, but a manual ISO setting
(override) capability will serve nearly as well.
If you find a camera that has exposure compensation, but no filter threads
on the lens, go for it; adapting a filter to the lens is fairly straightforward,
but having to separately filter the meter cell is a pain at best.
So what do you do if you can't afford a new Contax, or are otherwise
perfectly happy with the point-and-shoot that you already have? Improvise.
How involved this process becomes depends on how frequently you have occasion
to run black and white film through your point-and-shoot.
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Materials
needed for an improvised.
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If you rarely use black and
white in your compact camera, or just want to see if it can be done with
your particular camera, a gelatin filter, a pair of scissors, and some
double-stick (adhesive on both sides) tape provide a quick-and-dirty means
of filtration. A bit of tape above and below the lens suffice to anchor
a small square of filter gel. Incidentally, although I've used Kodak
Wratten gels for ages, I've recently discovered Calumet's
polyester gels; they're much more durable, can be cleaned, and are
more reasonably priced. If your camera has no means of dialing in exposure
compensation, then you'll need to cover the meter cell/window with
a bit of gel also. If you're not sure which of the umpteen little
windows on the front of your camera is the meter cell, check the parts/features
diagram in your instruction book; mistakenly covering an AF sensor can
wreak havoc in the picture sharpness department.
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Finished
filter mounted on camera; meter cell must also be filtered
(as here) if camera has no manual exposure compensation
or film ISO override.
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Should you desire a little
more substantial means of filtration, you will have two basic choices:
a press-fit filter, or a bracket arrangement that holds a home-brew filter
in front of the lens; which is more appropriate will depend on your particular
camera.
To improvise a press-fit filter in the small sizes common to point-and-shoot
lenses, I've found that a couple of plastic 35mm film can lids can
be made to serve. The can lids from the various brands of film are quite
different, so you'll have to compare them to see which comes closest
to your lens' outside diameter. You may luck out and come up with
a perfect fit, but most likely not. Anyway, the idea is simple: cut one
lid to press-fit onto your lens; cut out the other lid almost entirely,
maintaining a narrow ring to which to glue a circle of filter gel (remove
the inner "lip" of this front lid, the part that fits inside
the film can); after gluing the gel inside the front lid, glue the two
lids together. Voilà--instant filter! If you've gotten ahead
of me, at this point you're probably cussing a blue streak; the
plastic these film cans are made of is impervious to just about any glue
you've probably ever used.
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Gel
and film can lids cut to size, inner "lip" removed
from one lid.
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I tried all of my old standbys--Ambroid,
Duco, Testor's Plastic Cement, Weldwood, Pliobond, etc.--all to
no avail. Industrial solvents up to the task are dangerous and not available
in small quantities. Fortunately, I finally stumbled upon a tube of clear
sealant called "Lexel" at the hardware store. It claimed to
stick to just about anything, including wet surfaces, and they were right.
Again, if your camera has no exposure compensation, you'll also
have to tape a piece of filter gel over the meter cell; if it has compensation,
you're home free. This press-fit solution works well with the telescoping
zoom lenses on many of today's popular compacts. If your camera's
lens retracts behind a sliding cover, be sure to remove the filter before
turning the camera off.
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A
medium yellow filter lightened the car's tan color,
providing a "brighter" tonal range. (Agfa Scala
200.)
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Using some sort of spring-clamping
arrangement to attach the filter to the lens may occur to you. If you
decide to try it, proceed with caution; excessive clamping pressure could
damage plastic telescoping lens mounts, or distort the optics.
If you like the press-fit premise, but prefer a hardier filter material,
you should spend a weekend scouring a photographic flea market for small
glass filters originally made for 8mm movie cameras. If you can find the
tints you're looking for, they'll cost you even less than
new gels. You could also cut inexpensive Cokin A-series resin filters
(or equivalent brands) to size.
With many cameras with fixed focal length lenses, there isn't enough
of the lens protruding to attach a press-fit filter. In such cases, you'll
have to make a bracket and holder of some sort to hold a filter in front
of the lens. A 35mm slide mount makes a handy gel holder, and slips into
a home-brew bracket. The part that holds the slide mount can easily be
made from brass "U" channel (channel size determined by thickness
of your particular slide mounts), available at any serious hobby shop
that caters to model railroaders. To bend it to the "U" shape
needed, cut opposing 45° notches with a miniature miter box and saw
(X-Acto pictured above); bend it to shape, maintaining square alignment
with a cardboard slide mount (plastic mounts can melt from the heat generated
by the soldering step) inserted partway and secured with a rubber band,
then solder the corner joints.
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A
yellow filter darkened the sky, providing better tonal separation
from the overhanging ice. It also adds detail in the snow.
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How you support this slide
holder depends on your camera. A bracket arm can be attached to the camera
via a tripod socket or an accessory shoe. The Olympus Stylus Infinity
shown doesn't have a shoe, so the bracket arm was soldered to three
brass washers, through which a tripod screw fastens it to the tripod socket.
After soldering the holder to the arm and painting to match the camera,
you're ready to take (filtered) pictures. This Olympus' lens
is too close to the various sensors, so the top of the slide mount was
cut off; a projecting "tab" of filter gel covers the meter
cell, providing exposure compensation. With larger cameras, you probably
won't need to trim the slide mounts. The brass tubing used for the
bracket arm can be bent with minimal kinking with the aid of a tubing
bender; hobby shops currently seem to be stocking only the spring-type
benders (K&S Engineering, No. 321), but the wheel-type is better (but
more expensive) if you can find them.
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Materials
for a slide frame filter and holder: brass "U"
channel, tubing and washers; solder and soldering iron;
tubing bender (next to solder box); tripod screw; filter
gel; and 35mm slide mount.
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To attach the bracket arm via
an accessory shoe, just bend the arm to insert into a hole drilled in
a discarded flash attachment foot; make sure the arm doesn't obstruct
any of the camera's sensors.
If soldering isn't your thing, "U" channel is also available
in plastic. However, the resulting glued contraption won't be as
sturdy as the soldered brass version.
That's about it. The filter-adapting gizmos shown here aren't
"pretty," but they work. If you're a machinist, or can
afford one, you can certainly come up with something more esthetically
pleasing. The intent of this article is to fire up your imagination, to
show you that you don't have to accept the no-filter limitation
imposed upon you by the majority of point-and-shoot manufacturers. With
a couple of these rinky-dink devices at your disposal, fine art black
and white "on the fly" with a friendly little compact camera
can be a reality. Further, for the ultimate in creative laziness, load
up with Agfa Scala 200X or Polapan for black and white slides--no darkroom
needed!
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A yellow filter kept these adobe walls from being rendered
as a muddy gray.
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Calumet Photographic Products
(Polyester filter gels)
890 Supreme Dr.
Bensenville, IL 60106
(888) 888-9083
(630) 860-7447
fax: (800) 577-3686
www.calumetphoto.com
Contax
2301-200 Cottontail Ln.
Somerset, NJ 08873
(800) 526-0266
(732) 560-0060
fax: (732) 560-9221
www.contaxcameras.com
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Every
black and white filter article has to have the obligatory
cloud shot, so here it is; in this case an orange filter
added a bit of drama to the scene.
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HP Marketing Corp. (Heliopan
filters)
16 Chapin Rd.
Pine Brook, NJ 07058
(973) 808-9010
fax: (973) 808-9004
www.hpmarketingcorp.com
KOH's Camera Sales &
Services (30.5mm B+W and Heliopan filters)
2662 Jerusalem Ave.
North Bellmore, NY 11710
(516) 826-9566
fax: (516) 826-6257
www.kohscamera.com
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A
45° cut in the "U" channel for the slide
mount holder is simplified with a hobbyist's miniature
backsaw and miter box.
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Sashco Sealants, Inc. (Lexel
sealant)
10300 E. 107th Place
Brighton, CO 80601
(800) 289-7290
Schneider Optics, Inc. (B+W
filters)
285 Oser Ave.
Hauppauge, NY 11788
(516) 761-5000
fax: (516) 761-5090
e-mail: info@schneideroptics.com
www.schneideroptics.com
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Finished
holder in use. This camera required removal of top of mount
to avoid blocking various cells and windows; note gel "tab"
cut to cover meter cell.
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The
finished gel holder before painting.
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Before
soldering, a slide mount and rubber band assure square alignment.
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